My name is Joanne, and I’m 50 years old. For most of my life, my travels were limited to seaside resorts and bus tours through Europe. The Caucasus always seemed like something distant and mysterious, a land of high mountains and ancient traditions which I only knew from travel bloggers. This year, I decided to break the mold. I bought a combined long 17-day tour to the three countries of the South Caucasus region: Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia. In this post I will share my experience and will try to inspire you for traveling to this beautiful and hospitable land.
My journey began in Baku. The plane landed late in the evening, and the city greeted me with a blaze of lights. The famous Flame Towers stood out, shimmering with colors and truly resembling flames. It was futuristic and very beautiful.
Our guided tour started on the second day. Our guide, a smiling man named Afghan, immediately created a very warm atmosphere. We started our sightseeing tour from the heart of Baku – the old city of Icheri Sheher. It’s a labyrinth of narrow streets, where ancient mosques, caravanserais, and the famous Maiden Tower hide around every corner. I felt like a character in the film “The Diamond Arm”!
But Azerbaijan isn’t just Baku. We travelled to Yanar Dag or «burning mountain». The place is distinguished by the eternal fire blazing on the hill. And then continued our way to Gobustan, where prehistoric drawings on the rocks are preserved. Standing there, looking at these simple depictions of boats and hunters, takes your breath away with the sense of a connection between the ages. And there are mud volcanoes there too! Small and bubbling, they look like the surface of Mars!
During the tour we also had a trip to historical Sheki city known for its histry, palaces and museums.
What did I try? Oh, Azerbaijani cuisine is tasty! Pilaf, of course. I never imagined it could have so many varieties. I remember the shakh pilaf the most, baked in lavash, like a bag. It’s incredibly delicious. For dessert, we drank tea from traditional armudu glasses with fragrant baklava and shekerbura. It was sweet, spicy, and very Eastern.
What was the most memorable? Probably, the Eastern palaces, the natural gems like Yanardag and also the atmosphere and aromas of local bazaars.
From Baku, we had a land transfer to Georgia. Our way passed through Kakheti – the center of winemaking. We had a nice tour, a wine tasting and an overnight.
The next day we arrived in Tbilisi. It was like entering a completely different world. If Baku was a city of grand avenues and fiery ambition, Tbilisi was a city of cozy courtyards, carved wooden balconies, and a soulful, relaxed atmosphere. I immediately felt at home.
I spent the free evening exploring the city center. The next day we had a sightseeing tour in Tbilisi. We spent time exploring the old town, taking the cable car up to the Narikala Fortress for a breathtaking view of the city, and visited the famous sulfur baths. That was an unforgettable experience!
However our true adventures started the next days. We visited breathtaking Kazbegi settlement, amazing Vardzia cave town and have a good time in Borjomi and Kutaisi.
The food in Georgia is a separate poem. I think I ate khachapuri – those incredible cheese-filled bread boats – every single day. And the khinkali, juicy dumplings that you have to eat with your hands, were simply divine. For dessert, I tried churchkhela, a sweet “sausage” made of nuts and grape juice, which turned out to be the perfect snack for long walks.
But the most memorable part of Georgia was the people. I have never met such open, sincere, and hospitable people in my life. The concept of a “guest” here is sacred.
The final destination of my journey was Armenia. We said good-bye to Georgia and started our travel. Our first stop was in cozy Dilijan. We enjoyed its views, its fresh air and visited medieval monasteries nearby.
The next day we enjoyed some time on the shores of huge Lake Sevan whose water changes color from azure to turquoise depending on the weather, it was simply mesmerizing.
The 13th day was unforgettable as we travelled by the longest cable car in the world to the pearl of Armenian medieval architecture, Tatev Monastery. From the hill a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains opened.
After some days of travelling around Armenia we finally reached Yerevan. Yerevan, the “pink city,” greeted me with the warm tones of its tuff-stone buildings. The city felt calm and cozy. I loved the Cascade complex, a giant stairway of art, and the Republic Square with its singing fountains.
Armenia is a country of ancient stones and deep faith. Our last day trip was to the pagan temple of Garni, perched dramatically on the edge of a gorge, and the monastery of Geghard, partially carved out of a cliff, which left a profound impression on me. It felt like touching eternity.
Armenian cuisine is simple, hearty, and incredibly delicious. The smell of khorovats (barbecue) is everywhere. I tried it with the thinnest, most delicate bread called lavash, which is baked in a special underground oven called a tonir. For dessert, I tasted gata, a sweet pastry with a tender sugar filling.
But the most powerful impression of Armenia, the image that will forever stay with me, is the view of Mount Ararat. Although it’s on the other side of the border, it watches over Yerevan, a silent, majestic symbol of the Armenian soul. Seeing its snow-capped peaks from my hotel window glowing in the morning sun brought tears to my eyes. It was a moment of pure, unadulterated beauty.
Returning home, I felt like a different person. This trip was more than just a vacation; it was a discovery. I discovered the fiery energy of Azerbaijan, the heartfelt warmth of Georgia, and the ancient wisdom of Armenia. But most importantly, I discovered the people of the Caucasus—so different, yet so united in their love for their land and their respect for guests. All of this would not have happened if it weren’t for the Arara tour. I am truly impressed and can confidently say that I have never had such memorable days.I left a piece of my heart there, among those mountains, and I know for sure that one day I will be back.
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