After arriving in Portsmouth, Dominica, the previous afternoon, I couldn’t wait to enjoy my first full day on the island. I’ve had outstanding breakfasts across the Caribbean, from Puerto Rico to Trinidad and Tobago to Barbados. Now, I was ready to have a true Dominican breakfast in Dominica for the first time.
My adventure started bright and early, at 8 in the morning. After leaving my Airbnb, The Lighthouse767, I headed past several quaint breakfast joints until I reached the one I was looking for.
My journey in Portsmouth began at U and H Local Kitchen, where I met the owner, Ursula. She whipped up a classic Dominican breakfast just for me. It included oven-roasted breadfruit paired with seasoned saltfish, also known as codfish.
I couldn’t hide my enthusiasm for the roasted breadfruit. It had a tender feel and its starchiness went hand-in-hand with the saltfish. The onion in the saltfish gave it a nice, acidic pop of flavor . I enjoyed how straightforward yet tasty this meal was. It was delicious! To top it off, Ursula made me a smoothie that cooled me down on this already scorching Caribbean morning.
Bongo and I then made a quick visit to a cozy convenience store. It’s a local spot where Bongo often grabs his Dominican breakfast. While we were there, I sampled a bake, which is bread stuffed with either cheese or saltfish. It reminded me of pão de queijo, or Brazilian cheese bread. Like pão de queijo, it had a crunchy exterior and a soft middle. I also tried some refreshing and tangy tangerine juice!
After our Dominican breakfast, my guide Bongo and I made our way to the neighborhood market. People often say the market buzzes with more energy on Saturdays. However even on a weekday, it’s full of life, with sellers offering an assortment of farm-fresh fruits, vegetables, honey, and more.
I met sellers showing off the wide selection of local avocados, onions, and natural honey. Even though the market wasn’t bustling, I loved its vibe. I always say local markets are one of the best places to people-watch. This market is a lifeline for locals, and seeing it is a nice sneak peek into day-to-day life here in Portsmouth!
We then headed to Green Light Restaurant and Bar, a neighborhood favorite for a classic Dominican breakfast. There, I tried a couple of bakes: a saltfish version and one that looks like a chicken empanada. Sweet plantains, which I know as maduros, came with them.
These came drenched in vinaigrette and spiced up with hot sauce! The saltfish one was fantastic. Its crunchy and soft texture and tasty stuffing stood out to me. The fiery sauce brought an extra zing and kicked up the flavor a notch.
While Dominica may seem like a paradise, it’s faced its fair share of hardships in the past. Most recently, Hurricane Maria barrelled over the island in 2017 as a category 5 storm, causing extensive damage.
Despite the devastation it caused, Dominica boasts incredible natural scenery. Its peaks, rainforests, and volcanic features are some of the most picturesque in the Caribbean. Now that I had a belly full of Dominican breakfast food, I couldn’t wait to get out and explore more of the island!
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